Seriously, what is it? Coz every time two of them meet their conversation is centered around - no prizes for guessing - Fish!!
Now, there are parts of the world where there is a bigger fish-eating culture than in Goa. Japan, for instance is probably the biggest producer and consumer of fish. Even Goa's colonial ruler Portugal has a cuisine centered around seafood. They say in Portugal, 'If it comes out of the ocean, we'll eat it!!". Closer to home, Bengalis are known for their passion for fish. And yet, when it comes to talking fish, very few others do it as frequently and as passionately as Goans.
My earliest memories of a food-related discussion are mom and dad arguing about who buys the best fish and gets the best bargains at the local fish market. Or my dad arguing with my uncle about which market in Mumbai brings in better and fresher catch - Girgaum or Citylight.
I recently spent a few weeks with my cousin in Pune when his in-laws from Mumbai decided to pay a visit. Both mom-in-law and dad-in-law happened to be Goans. Though our conversation over a few pegs of whiskey began with the upcoming elections and the political turmoil in our home state, it eventually came to the point. Over the next few hours all matters relating to creatures of the sea and those who earn their livelihood from them were discussed. Mom-in-law turned out to be an expert on the subject and was remarkably passionate about anything that involved either fish or Goa. Here are some of her quips.
'Oh you like squid? You must come home sometime. We make stuffed squid every Sunday!!'
'Fish in Goa has a different taste. You cant get that in Mumbai!!'
'Don't ever buy fish from bhaiyyas remember, only kolis!!'
'Freshwater fish is bullshit! Real fish comes from the ocean!!'
Throughout the conversation mom-in-law's face exuded passion. And every species of fish that received a mention brought a million-dollar smile to her face. By the time our conversation ended, almost all the creatures dwelling in the Arabian Sea had found mention. At the end of it all, I could only think of the tagline from a much appreciated Mastercard commercial. Here's a modified version.
1 Whole Pomfret - Rs. 500
1 dozen large prawns - Rs. 400
10 slices of kingfish - Rs. 250
1 large lobster - Rs. 1000
The look on mom-in-law's face - Priceless!!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Monday, June 4, 2007
Girgaum's Secret Revealed
The secret lies tucked away in a bylane in crowded Girgaum. Is it really a secret?
I don't quite know. Every Girgaumkar knows it. If the Girgaumkar is a carnivore, he adores it. And for every Goan in Mumbai, it's akin to a pilgrimage spot! Even Rashmi Uday Singh praises it in her 'Times Good Food Guide'. And yet, it remains relatively unknown to a majority of Mumbai's foodies.
Lets cut to the chase. I'm talking about a small grade III eatery that goes by the name 'Anantashram Upahar Griha'. It serves(mostly non-vegetarian) Goan Hindu meals and is located in the picturesque lane of Khotachiwadi at a walking distance from Charni Road station. I had last visited the place as an 8 year-old with my mother who worked at the bank next door. Back then I was too young to really appreciate what these guys were doing. Many years and several passionate recommendations later I decided to pay the place a visit.
So, there I was on a summer Saturday at 12:30 pm(I know it's a little early but the owners are known to shut shop at 2:30 for their siesta in true blue Goan style!). Let's be frank. If you're hung-up on ambience, decor n stuff, this is not the place for you. The place is small with barely eight tables, there is no paint on the walls and the owners double-up as waiters. Anyway, I seated myself at one of those tiny tables and glanced the menu written on a board hung up on the wall(Yup, no menu cards here). After some thought, I decided to go for the Mutton curry with Chapatis and rice. I also ordered a plate of fried fish(Pomfret). The meal arrived in good time and I promptly tucked in. After having eaten my fill, I washed it all down with a cup of Solkadi. The verdict was simple. It was the best Goan meal I had eaten in a long, long time. Goa Portuguesa, Viva Paschim and Konkan Cafe can eat their hearts out!
How do these guys do it? I know that it's a bold statement to make but the place even manages to beat some of the best home-cooked Goan meals. I held on to that thought as I went into the kitchen to wash my hands(Yes, the only wash basin here, is the one in the kitchen!). And then it struck me. The kitchen had no modern equipment at all. Pestle and mortar, grindstone, wood-fired stove. Food is made here like it was in old-time Goa. It's Anantashram's resistance to change that has retained it's charm, distinct appeal and most importantly, the quality of it's food.
As I walked back(stuffed) to the station after the meal, I realised how Girgaum is one place in Mumbai that has stayed the same while the world around it has changed completely. The same Chawl system, the same old-fashioned people and fesivals celebrated with the same-old pomp. Stiff resistance to change of any kind. I think Anantashram, more than any other place, symbolises the stubborn, unchanged spirit of Girgaum. Hope it stays the same, always.
I don't quite know. Every Girgaumkar knows it. If the Girgaumkar is a carnivore, he adores it. And for every Goan in Mumbai, it's akin to a pilgrimage spot! Even Rashmi Uday Singh praises it in her 'Times Good Food Guide'. And yet, it remains relatively unknown to a majority of Mumbai's foodies.
Lets cut to the chase. I'm talking about a small grade III eatery that goes by the name 'Anantashram Upahar Griha'. It serves(mostly non-vegetarian) Goan Hindu meals and is located in the picturesque lane of Khotachiwadi at a walking distance from Charni Road station. I had last visited the place as an 8 year-old with my mother who worked at the bank next door. Back then I was too young to really appreciate what these guys were doing. Many years and several passionate recommendations later I decided to pay the place a visit.
So, there I was on a summer Saturday at 12:30 pm(I know it's a little early but the owners are known to shut shop at 2:30 for their siesta in true blue Goan style!). Let's be frank. If you're hung-up on ambience, decor n stuff, this is not the place for you. The place is small with barely eight tables, there is no paint on the walls and the owners double-up as waiters. Anyway, I seated myself at one of those tiny tables and glanced the menu written on a board hung up on the wall(Yup, no menu cards here). After some thought, I decided to go for the Mutton curry with Chapatis and rice. I also ordered a plate of fried fish(Pomfret). The meal arrived in good time and I promptly tucked in. After having eaten my fill, I washed it all down with a cup of Solkadi. The verdict was simple. It was the best Goan meal I had eaten in a long, long time. Goa Portuguesa, Viva Paschim and Konkan Cafe can eat their hearts out!
How do these guys do it? I know that it's a bold statement to make but the place even manages to beat some of the best home-cooked Goan meals. I held on to that thought as I went into the kitchen to wash my hands(Yes, the only wash basin here, is the one in the kitchen!). And then it struck me. The kitchen had no modern equipment at all. Pestle and mortar, grindstone, wood-fired stove. Food is made here like it was in old-time Goa. It's Anantashram's resistance to change that has retained it's charm, distinct appeal and most importantly, the quality of it's food.
As I walked back(stuffed) to the station after the meal, I realised how Girgaum is one place in Mumbai that has stayed the same while the world around it has changed completely. The same Chawl system, the same old-fashioned people and fesivals celebrated with the same-old pomp. Stiff resistance to change of any kind. I think Anantashram, more than any other place, symbolises the stubborn, unchanged spirit of Girgaum. Hope it stays the same, always.
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