Wednesday, February 8, 2012

The Pubs of London

When it comes to things to do in London, this one's a no-brainer. Especially if you like beer. Any travel/food show's London episode is sure to feature the host visiting at least one old-fashioned pub with wooden interiors and beer-on-tap.
While I had put hours of painstaking research into what cuisines to try and which restaurants to visit while in London, I had not given much thought to which pubs I should go to. That's where having friends who've lived in the city for a while and are borderline alcoholics helped.

It was the day after I landed that my friends took me to my first London pub. It's called 'The Gun' and is located in the Docklands area close to where they live. Docklands is home to London's banking district and the erstwhile Port of London, so I wasn't expecting a 'public house' that is so atmospheric and has so much history.

There has been a pub at this location for more than 250 years and apparently Lord Nelson visited The Gun frequently and had rendezvous with his mistress Emma Hamilton here. The two-storeyed whitewashed structure has an indoor section with the bar as you enter and then the large veranda that is right on the edge of the Thames. During the summer, The Gun's outdoor section turns into an al-fresco restaurant with a Portuguese theme called A Grelha. Super Bock beer and Portuguese specialties like Cataplana and Piri Piri Chicken are served. The London pub tour couldn't have had a better start. For more on the history of The Gun and some great pictures, go to http://www.thegundocklands.com/

The next pub came on the Sunday after the V Festival, when my friends went to watch the India vs England test and I didn't have much to do. So, I joined one of their friends and her German husband at what claims to be the oldest public house in London. It's called The Prospect of Whitby and is located in the area of Wapping. The origin of the pub apparently dates back to 1520 and in earlier times, it was called 'The Pelican' and 'The Devil's Tavern'. The latter is due to a sketchy past reputation as a meeting place for smugglers and pirates. The current name comes from a ship that was once anchored nearby.

The entrance leads to the main indoor bar, with typical wooden interiors, while the outdoor section is a balcony overlooking the Thames. From here, a creaking staircase leads to another rooftop terrace, which overlooks the river too. Beers from England, Belgium, Germany and Holland along with Guinness and Strongbow cider means there's plenty of choice in the drinking section. The Prospect of Whitby is also known for its pub-grub and one can get very good Bangers and Mash, Shepherd's Pie and Fish and Chips here. Unfortunately there is no website, but for information and pictures, visit http://www.taylor-walker.co.uk/pub-food/prospect-of-whitby-wapping/pid-C8166.

Not that I needed an excuse to continue the 'pub-crawl' but meeting an ex-colleague near London Bridge on a Wednesday evening called for a few beers. We were looking for a good pub when we wandered into the St Katherine Docks area and found The Dickens Inn. The Gun and The Prospect of Whitby are places with history, while The Dickens Inn is certainly one of the most atmospheric public houses in London. The location definitely helps - St Katherine Docks is home to luxury housing estates and is the place where the rich park their yachts. The ground level serves as a tavern, while the first and second floors have a grill house and a pizzeria respectively. The tavern has an indoor bar and seating area, while the balcony has oak barrels that serve as table tops while you enjoy your beer with a view of the marina. For more information and pictures, visit http://www.dickensinn.co.uk/.

The last of the pub visits was a short one and came while waiting for a table at a Vietnamese restaurant across the street. The Reliance is on Old Street and is smaller than the other pubs I've described so far. But it has a good selection of ales, Belgian and Czech beers and cider. It’s also known to serve good pub grub. Worth dropping in if you happen to be in the Shoreditch area. http://www.viewlondon.co.uk/pubsandbars/the-reliance-info-13128.html

It's possible to turn any trip to London into one endless pub-crawl. Well, I managed four very traditional pubs, places with great atmosphere and history attached to them. Check them out, when in London.