Outdoor food markets around the world are known as some of the best places to eat local food. Not surprising, considering the availability of fresh ingredients. No wonder then, that every food-related show worth its name usually features a local food market in each episode. Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo and Rue Montergueil in Paris are notable examples.
But when it comes to a megacity like London, the definition of 'local' must be revisited. With almost every nationality represented adequately, there are markets in London with strong representation from various immigrant communities. Brixton with its Caribbean flavor and Brick Lane in the middle of Bengali territory are two of them. There is one market however, that brings artisanal food products - mostly organic - from all over the world and combines it with restaurants and food stalls right in the heart of London.
Borough market has been in existence since as far back as the 11th century, though the present location (across the street from the London Bridge tube station - Borough High Street exit) has been in use since the 13th century. What started originally as a gathering of traders selling grain, fish, vegetables and livestock, today serves as a venue for innovative restaurateurs and producers of artisanal foods to showcase their products. It is also a haven for all those people who care for good food and great ingredients - chefs, restaurateurs, passionate amateur cooks or just people who love to eat and drink! And as far as the vendors are concerned, it’s a diverse group of remarkable individuals from all over the UK, Europe and the rest of the world.
I don't remember when and where I first became aware of its existence, but I soon stumbled upon Borough Market's website and not surprisingly, it didn't take long for the YouTube/Wikipedia style browsing to begin. All vendors and restaurants are listed on Borough Market's website and most of them have their own websites as well. What's more, the timing of the find was just right, as I was to visit London in less than a month. Browsing the Borough Market website was like finding oneself in a toy-store as a child. The sheer variety of products on offer, especially in cured meats section meant that planning a visit became a daunting task. Moreover, the market is primarily wholesale and the retail sections are open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays only. Nevertheless, Borough market had been ticked as a must-visit during my time in London.
Thankfully, Borough Market is not difficult to find. The London Bridge station is on the Jubilee and Northern lines of the London Underground and one of the gates to the market is bang opposite the Borough High Street exit of the station. The market is divided into three broad sections - Jubilee Market, Green Market and the Middle Row. While some traders are open for business on all three days, some set up shop only on Thursday/Friday/Saturday.
My first stop was one of the most popular shops in the entire market. Brindisa was started in 1988 to bring high quality Spanish ingredients to the UK. Today it stocks the best Iberico ham, Manchego cheese and a wide variety of sausages and other cured meats made in Spain. They also have Tapas bars at three locations in London. I was here for their chorizo sandwich, which is served at a small stall right outside the main shop. It's served in sliced Ciabatta bread, stuffed with grilled chorizo from the shop, sweet Piquillo pepper and crisp rocket leaves...brilliance in simplicity...nuff said! While I was there, I also went into the shop and bought some Manchego cheese. Brindisa has a very wide range of artisanal Spanish food products and a killer chorizo sandwich! To find out more, visit http://www.brindisa.com/.
Next up was a small shop called Hobbs Meat Roast that serves fresh baguettes with a variety of fillings. These are quite popular and the shop regularly draws long queues for lunch. I went for the roast loin of pork with stuffing and apple sauce, which was pretty good. Other fillings include turkey breast with stuffing and cranberry sauce and salt beef with dill pickle and mustard.
http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/page/hobbs-meat-roast-2.
I wanted to pick up some cured meat to go with the Manchego cheese and found a great stall in Jubilee Market. This one sold sausages from southern Italy and I picked a great-tasting sausage made from wild boars indigenous to the region. Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the stall.
Last stop on Thursday was a shop in the middle row called Mrs. King's Pork Pies. The pies are made with fresh pork and jelly stuffed in pastry. I was stuffed by now and had to get these packed. They are to be had cold (the jelly melts if you heat them) and were pretty good.
http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/page/mrs-kings-pork-pies-2
An hour spent in Borough Market and there was a lot left to try/buy/eat. So I came back there with my friends on Saturday. There was one stall I really didn't want to miss and it operates in the Jubilee Market only on Saturdays. De Calabria offers a variety of products from the Italian region of Calabria, located at the southern tip of the peninsula. Two notable products at the stall are Soppressata - the region's most popular salami - and N'duja - a heavily spiced spreadable salami made from pig's cheeks, lard and belly. The soppressata was out of stock, but the N'duja tasted fabulous and I got some packed to get back home.
http://www.decalabria.co.uk/
Another Saturday-only stall at the market is Rainha Santa Portuguese Foods. They source their products from the Alentejo region of Portugal and the list is truly impressive. From marmalades and preserves to honey to cured meats and cheese, these guys do it all and it all comes from a single estate. I wanted Serra da Estrela cheese which was out of stock, so I ended up buying their chourico, which I got back home.
http://www.rainhasanta.co.uk/
Two visits to the Borough Market and I couldn't even scratch the surface. The number of stalls and sheer variety of products on offer made it impossible to cover it in greater detail given the shortage of time. So, if any of you are headed to London anytime soon, I'll have a list ready...:)
Till then feast your eyes here....http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/
