The history of Bombay as a major city dates back to 19th century
British rule - relatively short in comparison to several other cities in the
country like Delhi, Hyderabad and Lucknow. Consequently, the culinary culture
of the city is also younger and has its origins in regions of the country from
which large numbers of people migrated to it. So while the these significantly older
cities can boast of descendants of medieval court chefs still plying their
trade in present day restaurants, it is not something you're likely to come
across in Bombay.
There are however, some very old restaurants in the city. South Bombay, or Town as it is popularly known, was the part of the city that was settled the earliest and this is where restaurants came up first. Most of the oldest eating places in the city can still be found in Town. And there are a handful that have been around for more than a century. That the quality of food in these establishments is stellar should not come as a surprise - that is the least it would take to survive for that long. And how can a series of posts on the best restaurants in South Bombay be complete without one featuring a centurion? So here goes!
Bagdadi Restaurant is located in Colaba in the lane between Colaba Causeway and the Taj Mahal hotel - in the same lane as that no-frills drinking place and that overrated Kebab stall. Its exact year of origin is not known even to the present owners. Some say it's older than the nearby Gateway of India and the iconic hotel under whose shadow it exists. One online review even says its 128 years old. What is certain is that this one is a centurion and that it is thriving!
Mohammad Ibrahim Sheikh is the present owner of Bagdadi Restaurant and was kind enough to answer a few questions about the history of the place on a busy Tuesday night. It was Mohammad's great grandfather who started the restaurant a little more than a century ago. Since then the ownership of the restaurant has changed hands a few times before eventually coming back to Mohammad's family. The name Bagdadi may lead one to believe that the owners have an Iraqi or Middle Eastern lineage, but Mohammad explains that it is just a reference to the Persian/Iraqi influence on Indian Muslim cuisine in general and Mughal cuisine in particular.
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While most Muslim eateries are known for their Kebabs, there are actually none on the menu at Bagdadi. It's all about the meat curries here. The menu has items written on wooden planks arranged on a wooden frame that looks as old as the restaurant itself.
While the meat curries at Bagdadi are great, the real star at this restaurant is its Tandoori Roti. King size and really crisp, they are rolled out of the Tandoor non-stop and you are sure to see a few at every table. I remember saying this to a friend once while describing the rotis at Bagdadi - "With these, you'll even eat turds"! Might be inappropriate to mention on a food blog, but I think you get the point.
The curries at Bagdadi come with chicken, mutton or beef. My pick of the lot is the Mutton Bhuna. It's got well-cooked chunks of mutton loaded with tomato and chilies and packs quite a punch. Needless to say, it goes really well with the Tandoori Roti.
Apart from the regular menu, the restaurant also has daily specials displayed on a separate board and the Thursday special is Chicken Patiala. This is a chicken leg cooked in a rich curry and is milder than the Bhuna but equally good.
Bagdadi also has Pulao and Biryani on the menu and the Mutton Biryani is surely worth a try. But while Biryanis in many restaurants tend to be too dry, at Bagdadi the problem seems to be the opposite. There is too much marinade - as much as the rice in fact. A bit more rice or a little less marinade in each portion and this would be a really good Biryani.
A century in operation and Bagdadi Restaurant is still going strong, remaining packed almost daily and justifiably so. Let's hope Mr. Mohammad Ibrahim Sheikh and his successors keep it going for another hundred. And the next time you're looking for a bite after a drinking session at that popular no-frills bar next door, skip that overrated Kebab house and head to Bagdadi!
https://www.zomato.com/mumbai/bagdadi-colaba
There are however, some very old restaurants in the city. South Bombay, or Town as it is popularly known, was the part of the city that was settled the earliest and this is where restaurants came up first. Most of the oldest eating places in the city can still be found in Town. And there are a handful that have been around for more than a century. That the quality of food in these establishments is stellar should not come as a surprise - that is the least it would take to survive for that long. And how can a series of posts on the best restaurants in South Bombay be complete without one featuring a centurion? So here goes!
Bagdadi Restaurant is located in Colaba in the lane between Colaba Causeway and the Taj Mahal hotel - in the same lane as that no-frills drinking place and that overrated Kebab stall. Its exact year of origin is not known even to the present owners. Some say it's older than the nearby Gateway of India and the iconic hotel under whose shadow it exists. One online review even says its 128 years old. What is certain is that this one is a centurion and that it is thriving!
Mohammad Ibrahim Sheikh is the present owner of Bagdadi Restaurant and was kind enough to answer a few questions about the history of the place on a busy Tuesday night. It was Mohammad's great grandfather who started the restaurant a little more than a century ago. Since then the ownership of the restaurant has changed hands a few times before eventually coming back to Mohammad's family. The name Bagdadi may lead one to believe that the owners have an Iraqi or Middle Eastern lineage, but Mohammad explains that it is just a reference to the Persian/Iraqi influence on Indian Muslim cuisine in general and Mughal cuisine in particular.
.JPG)
While most Muslim eateries are known for their Kebabs, there are actually none on the menu at Bagdadi. It's all about the meat curries here. The menu has items written on wooden planks arranged on a wooden frame that looks as old as the restaurant itself.
While the meat curries at Bagdadi are great, the real star at this restaurant is its Tandoori Roti. King size and really crisp, they are rolled out of the Tandoor non-stop and you are sure to see a few at every table. I remember saying this to a friend once while describing the rotis at Bagdadi - "With these, you'll even eat turds"! Might be inappropriate to mention on a food blog, but I think you get the point.
The curries at Bagdadi come with chicken, mutton or beef. My pick of the lot is the Mutton Bhuna. It's got well-cooked chunks of mutton loaded with tomato and chilies and packs quite a punch. Needless to say, it goes really well with the Tandoori Roti.
Apart from the regular menu, the restaurant also has daily specials displayed on a separate board and the Thursday special is Chicken Patiala. This is a chicken leg cooked in a rich curry and is milder than the Bhuna but equally good.
Bagdadi also has Pulao and Biryani on the menu and the Mutton Biryani is surely worth a try. But while Biryanis in many restaurants tend to be too dry, at Bagdadi the problem seems to be the opposite. There is too much marinade - as much as the rice in fact. A bit more rice or a little less marinade in each portion and this would be a really good Biryani.
A century in operation and Bagdadi Restaurant is still going strong, remaining packed almost daily and justifiably so. Let's hope Mr. Mohammad Ibrahim Sheikh and his successors keep it going for another hundred. And the next time you're looking for a bite after a drinking session at that popular no-frills bar next door, skip that overrated Kebab house and head to Bagdadi!
https://www.zomato.com/mumbai/bagdadi-colaba
